We’ve got blended emotions writing about Pontremoli, the town our household has referred to as house for 250 years. We’re torn between preserving our well-kept secret and sharing it with others. However the meals is just too good and the tradition too wealthy to not unfold the phrase.
Pontremoli — located in Lunigiana, a area on the intersection of northern Tuscany, Emilia Romagna, and Liguria — has a wealthy heritage courting again to the Center Ages. At the moment, its historic significance is obvious in its architectural landmarks, together with the spectacular Piagnaro Citadel, the majestic Cathedral, and quite a few palazzos.
Often known as the “door of Tuscany,” Pontremoli has additionally been an important middle of commerce for hundreds of years. Guests will discover specialty merchandise right here, like PDO-status olive oil and chestnut honey, and eating places give attention to elements sourced completely from close by producers.
With standard locations like Milan, Florence, Pisa, Lucca, Parma, and the Italian Riviera all simply accessible by prepare or a brief drive, Pontremoli is a perfect base for exploring the area. This is tips on how to plan a memorable journey.
High 5 Can’t Miss
- For a novel Tuscan expertise, keep at Agriturismo Costa d’Orsola, which additionally performed host to Meryl Streep’s son’s marriage ceremony.
- Pontremoli’s signature dish, testaroli, is a flat-baked pasta usually served with pesto. It is thought-about Italy’s “earliest recorded pasta.”
- Go to Piagnaro Citadel and the Museum of Lunigiana Stele Statues to immerse your self in Pontremoli’s medieval historical past.
- At legendary Bar Luciano, get pleasure from Bianco Oro, an aperitif that includes glowing wine, a intently guarded family-secret mix of three liqueurs, and gin.
- In August, Pontremoli transforms right into a medieval utopia throughout its well-known Medievalis pageant.
The place to Keep
Courtesy of La Casa Medievale Pontremoli
Cà Del Moro Resort
Cà Del Moro is a tranquil retreat, with meadows of historic olive, cypress, and chestnut timber. One aspect is bordered by the gently flowing Magra River and gorgeous views of the Apennine mountain vary are seen from each angle. The property, solely a 25-minute stroll to the middle of Pontremoli, homes 26 rooms, two eating places, a pool, a golf course, and a wellness middle. Breakfast is a spotlight, that includes an array of contemporary fruit, pastries, bread, cheeses, salamis, yogurt, jams, and native specialties, together with plum crostata (pie) and chestnut honey.
Villa la Cartiera
Set in manicured gardens and tucked behind decorative iron gates, this 1800s mansion is a brief stroll from Pontremoli’s middle. Traditionally, its grounds hosted a paper mill and an ice manufacturing unit, now repurposed as exhibition areas. The villa has 9 bedrooms, 4 loos, a library, and lounges adorned with vintage work and furnishings. The gardens are a tranquil place to chill out, and there is a distinctive pool fed by the Magra River. Regardless of its luxurious choices, Villa la Cartiera stays welcoming, with heat hospitality from proprietor Emanuele Del Signore and supervisor Marta Franciosi.
Costa d’Orsola
Agriturismi, or farm stays, are standard in Europe, and Costa d’Orsola — nestled within the hills above Pontremoli — is a picturesque alternative. Along with fascinating views of the Magra Valley and Apennine Mountains, the property presents 14 distinct rooms, a swimming pool, a tennis court docket, and olive groves. Eating right here contains conventional native specialties, making certain a pleasant culinary expertise.
La Casa Medievale
An unassuming door set on a slim, winding avenue main as much as the Castello del Piagnaro hides La Casa Medievale, an historic stone residence-turned-hotel. Inside, 4 spacious suites, every uniquely designed, span a number of ranges and provide trendy facilities. One other standout function? The spa, which is about inside a grotto created from the dwelling rock of the Piagnaro hills.
The place to Eat
Isabella Pino/REDA&CO/Common Pictures Group through Getty Pictures
Osteria da Bussé 1930
Osteria da Bussé has been a part of the city’s identification for greater than 90 years, and it honors Pontremoli’s wealthy culinary heritage with a recent twist. The menu is a celebration of native flavors and elements, with meat and fish dishes showcasing the area’s bounty. You’ll discover native river trout, tender duck breast, hearty oxtail, succulent lamb, and wild boar, every ready with care and precision. The pasta, created from scratch, is a spotlight, delicately flavored with elements like ricotta, sage, and parmesan. The atmosphere at right here is discreet and stylish, and the workers’s enthusiasm for the menu is real and infectious. Including to its allure, Osteria da Bussé is thought for crafting distinctive liquors, with regional flavors that embrace porcini mushrooms and aniseed.
La Caverna dei Nani
Within the coronary heart of Pontremoli, La Caverna dei Nani (or “Cave of the Dwarves”) is tucked in an enthralling, historic cellar that mixes a country atmosphere with a ardour for craft brewing. On heat days, dine exterior within the pretty backyard, which presents picturesque views of the Verde stream. Guests are handled to a formidable choice of expertly brewed beers, every completely paired with hamburgers created from high-quality beef sourced from Tuscany’s Chiana Valley.
Pizzeria San Giorgio
Not removed from the guts of Pontremoli, and adjoining to the Romanesque chapel of San Giorgio, lies a pizzeria that appears to seem as if by magic. Opened in 1983, it is a cherished eating vacation spot for each locals and vacationers coming from throughout Europe. The menu celebrates the area’s culinary heritage with dishes like testaroli with pesto sauce, veal with porcini mushrooms, contemporary seafood, and 30 sorts of pizza baked in a wood-fired oven. In the summertime, friends can dine in a flower-filled backyard with a playground for youngsters.
Trattoria Norina
Nestled in a centuries-old constructing alongside a slim alleyway, Norina presents a quintessential trattoria expertise that transports diners again in time. This hidden gem serves beautiful native delicacies that mirrors the altering seasons. With no printed menus or English spoken, the choices change every day, making certain every go to is a novel expertise. The summer time terrace presents a shocking view of the Magra River. Should-order dishes (you can solely discover in Pontremoli) embrace patona, a standard chestnut flour bread paired with creamy ricotta, tordelli, a sort of ravioli individually filled with spinach and garnished with meat ragù, and torta d’erbe, a savory pie full of herbs, greens, and greens.
Osteria Della Bietola
In Italian, osteria refers to a country institution the place glorious wine is served and accompanied by easy but well-prepared dishes. These eateries emphasize high quality elements and easy preparation, providing a heat, unpretentious eating expertise. In Pontremoli, Osteria della Bietola exemplifies this custom. Housed in a centuries-old constructing with stone arched ceilings, the house exudes a allure that makes you are feeling like you might be eating with household at house. The environment is motive sufficient to spend a night right here, although specialties like testaroli cacio e pepe and tagliatelle with white truffles seal the deal.
Caffè e Antica Pasticceria degli Svizzeri
This cafe in Pontremoli is a real emblem of custom and style. The signal exterior, unchanged since 1925, invitations guests to attempt specialties just like the traditional spongata, a pastry full of dried and candied fruits, cocoa, and spices, and amor, product of two crisp wafers and full of cream. Different delights embrace almond cake, nougat with native honey, morning brioches, and chocolate pralines with marzipan and walnuts. A deal with right here — whether or not a cappuccino, an Aperol spritz, or a post-dinner gelato — is made much more particular by the charming out of doors tables beneath Pontremoli’s illuminated bell tower.
What to See and Do
phbcz/Getty Pictures
Go to Piagnaro Citadel.
Take a scenic stroll by means of the cobblestone streets to Piagnaro Citadel, a well-preserved defensive fort from the 12 months 1000. The fortress can also be house to the Museum of Lunigiana Stele Statues, that includes anthropomorphic sculptures of mysterious origin courting from the Copper Age to the Roman period.
Admire the Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta.
Within the coronary heart of Pontremoli stands the Duomo, also called the Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. It was designed by Alessandro Capra of Cremona within the seventeenth century. Inside, you’ll discover the city’s most sacred object — a picket statue of the Madonna del Popolo, a Thirteenth-century icon portrayed as a Black Madonna.
Try Teatro della Rosa.
The gorgeous Teatro della Rosa, a efficiency artwork venue constructed by 25 noble households, is among the most important symbols of 18th-century Pontremoli, and it is the oldest theater of its variety within the Apuan space.
Time your journey with Medievalis.
Through the Medievalis pageant in August, Pontremoli transforms right into a medieval utopia. Town goes car-free for 5 days, permitting vacationers, retailers, carriages, and knights to convey the Center Ages again to life. Within the night, hearth dancers, jesters, and musicians take to the streets with spectacular performances.
Get out in nature.
Go to one of many many small freshwater lakes that run by means of Pontremoli. These serene spots, usually reached by a brief trek, are surrounded by chestnut and willow timber. You may even take a refreshing dip on a heat day.
Discover the market.
Pontremoli’s out of doors market units up in Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza del Duomo on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Stalls brim with native produce and different meals, creating a colourful scene. Yow will discover wheels of parmesan, jars of chestnut honey, dried porcini mushrooms, and extra. It’s an ideal place to immerse your self within the area’s flavors and take house a chunk of Pontremoli.
Palazzo Dosi Magnavacca, a shocking Baroque residence within the historic middle, was constructed between 1742 and 1749 on the behest of the Dosi household, a distinguished lineage of Po Valley retailers who rose to the rank of marquises. The magnificence and grandeur of its design mirror the wealth and affect of the Dosi household, and the palazzo stays a testomony to their legacy.
Methods to Get There
clodio/Getty Pictures
In case you are flying from the U.S., we advocate arriving at Milan Malpensa Airport. You may hire a automotive, drive to Pontremoli, or take a prepare from Milano Centrale. Trenitalia and Italo trains serve Pontremoli, and the station is inside strolling distance of the city middle. Should you’re touring inside Italy and Europe, the closest airports to Pontremoli are Pisa Worldwide Airport and Florence Airport, the place automotive and rail companies are additionally accessible.